If you have any further questions, please e-mail us at sales@mcnichols.com or call us at 1-877-884-4653.

Center Outlets
Question: Can I have a bottom outlet in the middle of the run?
Answer: Yes. Turn the channel arrows to point towards center. Cut off the male end of one channel and butt the channel ends together. Support the joint with an installation chair.

Joint Sealant
Question: What do I use to seal the channel joints?
Answer: One part urethane for water and mild acids. Epoxy for chemical applications. Apply a bead of sealant to one end before putting channels together. Note: Silicone will not work. Purchase sealant at local building supply store. Each side of the joint should be cleaned with a solvent to remove all molded releases.

Extended Runs
Question: Can I combine two kits and have a high point in the middle and flow out both ends?
Answer: Yes. Cut the female end off both channels and butt channel ends together. Support with installation chair and use appropriate sealant.

Cutting Channels
Question: Can I cut channels for length or corners?
Answer: Yes. Use abrasive blade or dry cut diamond blade in circular saw. Cut channel from the bottom.

Rebar
Question: What size rebar do I use with the installation chair?
Answer: #4 (1/2" diameter)

Rebar Length
Question: How long does the rebar need to be?
Answer: Long enough to prevent the channels from floating, which varies with site conditions.

Drilling Holes
Question: Can I drill holes into channels?
Answer: Yes. Use a diamond core drill or masonry drill.

Cutting Grates
Question: What do I use to cut the grates?
Answer: A hack saw, portable band saw or sawsall.

Plywood
Question: Can I cut plywood and use in lieu of the grate being installed during concreting?
Answer: Only if you are using kit A hardnose grates with kit 1 or 2.

End Cap Attachment
Question: What holds the end caps onto the channels?
Answer: Duct tape until concrete is poured.

Repaired Channels
Question: Can I repair a damaged channel, and if so, what do I use?
Answer: Broken corners can be repaired with a 2-part epoxy. Seriously damaged or broken channels must be replaced.

Problem
Question: Why are the channels not flush on the top edge?
Answer: The arrows are probably pointing the wrong way or the channel number sequence is out of order.

Solid Tire Traffic
Question: I have small forklifts and or pallet jacks or solid wheel tow carts. Do I need kit A hardnose grates?
Answer: Yes. Kit A must be used anytime there will be solid tire traffic, regardless of size or frequency.

Concrete
Question: How much concrete needs to be under the channel?
Answer: 4" or an amount equal to the slab thickness, which ever is greater.

Channel Installation (see Installation)
Question: Can I set the channels directly onto the sub grade for installation?
Answer: No.

Installation Chairs
Question: Must I use the installation chair?
Answer: No. However, the installation chairs, when properly used, prevent the channels from pulling apart and floating in the wet concrete. The installation chair can significantly reduce labor costs.

Retrofit Installation(see Retrofit Installation)
Question: What is the best method for supporting drain channels for (existing floor, saw cut) retrofit installations?
Answer: Hang each channel from the floor using 2’ x 4’ lumber. Mechanically fasten both ends of the board to the floor. Drill a hole in the center of the board and insert a longer (not supplied) bolt through the hole, through the grate and into the lock bar and tighten.

Chemical Applications
Question: Is there a system for aggressive chemical exposure?
Answer: Yes. There is a vinyl ester resin system available as a special order. Call us for details at 1-800-237-3820.